FIRST OVERLAND NEWSLETTER 27

We have set up a donation page where people can sponsor the glasses, and pledge money to help us achieve our goals. We have already raised the funds required for the Land Rovers' refurbishment but we still need a lot more in order to get to Singapore. Please dig deep and help us achieve this life-changing goal. Please spread the word about this expedition to friends and family, as we need all the help we can get en route as well.

Thank you — The OxCam First Overland 2010 Team

You can keep up to date on the 2010 Team's efforts on their website. Michael seemed a little subdued at Gaydon —anyone would have been in those weather conditions! — but then brightened a little when he worked out that, because of University exams, the original Expedition were probably no further forward in early May with their detailed planning than his team were. If Tim, BB and the rest could pull their expedition together in just a few weeks, then so could this 21st-Century team. I'm sure they will, and we wish them well.

They also understand that Ratan Tata, the ultimate owner of the modern Land Rover company, will be visiting Cambridge later this month, and obviously they'll be pulling out all the stops to try to get some time with him, to tell him about the Expedition and its plans. Now, he would be a useful supporter to get on board.

And of course, you can still re-live the original 1955 Expedition with the reprint of Tim's book, available from Signal Books.

Indian Restoration

And keeping the Indian theme going, in Newsletter 25 I mentioned LR enthusiast Ajit Krishnamohan from Bangalore. He's written to say that he'll be in Calcutta this Christmas, about the same time as the 2010 Expedition is due — he very much hopes to be able to meet up with them. He also managed in a few words to link together 'First Overland', his country, and the part of Yorkshire where I live:

My mum told me a distant relative of hers, (who was serving as a physician in Burma at the time) escaped during the war via the Burma Road sometime in the 1940s, covering large portions of the journey on foot! Probably need to ask my grandparents about this as she didn't have much further information. She was interested in your other title as well (Nell's Moors), as she's a James Herriot fan.

Yes, James Herriot practiced as a vet on the other side of the Yorkshire Moors from here, and used to listen to the BBC Local Radio station that I once worked for as he went about his calls. This led to a wonderful day when my wife and I went to interview him for the radio, in his car as he drove from farm to farm. My wife even got to help him hold one of the sheep still as he carried out some treatment — Veterinary Assistant to James Herriot! Later, my Sheepdog Video Star Nell went to visit the visitor centre now in the house where he once practiced, for her third film about the North York Moors. She sat on his operating table — but didn't like it much! It seemed very surreal, though, to be chatting in emails to a lady in India about what my sheepdog once did in Thirsk.

Ajit also sent pictures of a friend Abhishek's lovingly-restored Series 1, and the view through the windscreen as he drove it on the Indian roads. He says "Looks much like the Series 1 that accompanied the Oxford and Cambridge Rovers from Assam till the Burmese border (with political officer on board!) Drove it last weekend with some degree of trepidation due the steering play — quite exciting given the fact that I've only driven modern cars up to this point. Did put a smile on my face though, and really came into its own on sections of broken/unpaved road." Thanks, Ajit — you've been bitten by the bug!

Adventure Was There For The Finding

But whilst the 'instancy' of email is wonderful, it's still good to get a real, paper letter — particularly when it comes in an airmail envelope, with those red and blue edges. Norman McDill wrote from East Newborough in Victoria, Australia:

Just a short letter to say how much I enjoyed your 'First Overland' DVD. I bought the Book Club version in 1968 and it has always been within arms reach.

Since 1958 I have been a Surveyor on projects from Tasmania to the Northern Territory, and Western Australia to North Queensland, so Land Rovers have always been a part of my life. The one pictured on the back of this letter is my own transport — a 1969 long wheel base 6 cylinder. The photo was taken at Ravenswood in 1973. It was almost a ghost town — the mines unused but leases firmly held. We stayed in the pub in the background top floor left. The front doors were swing doors and we almost expected Jesse James to come through them!

The previous Easter, we travelled from Townsville to Rubyvale to fossick for sapphires. One of my surveyors had a 4-cylinder 109, and we travelled 1100 miles round trip. The diggings were straight out of the 1800's. Shots were heard every night, with sabotaged mining gear common. But I had my trusty Lee Enfield .303 leaning in a prominent position and had no trouble.

I too started an expedition in June 1955. We sailed in the RMS Orontes from Tilbury Docks to Melbourne. My father was in Australia from 1943, operating X-craft 4-man submarines out of Darwin, ranging from Borneo to Singapore. He worked for Special Operations Executive and came over in civilian clothes. SOE even had an office in Melbourne.

The world was a different place in 1955 — adventure was there for the finding. When we left Edinburgh there was a national train strike so we flew from Turnhouse to London by Vickers Viscount (I still have the brochure). I started work as a Junior Clerk — a top job but soon changed to Surveying. I have supervised billions of dollars-worth of large projects in inhospitable deserts and mountains. I have also scuba-dived from the Maldives to Tahiti, and everywhere from Fiji to the Solomon Islands. Your DVD adds another dimension to the book.

Rest assured, Norman, it was a great pleasure making it.

Arthur Goddard

Back in April I sent a Newsletter Update, saying that I would also soon be having the 'great pleasure' of meeting one of the men who indirectly made all this possible — Arthur Goddard, who was the Chief Engineer of the original Land-Rover Project (before it was even officially 'Land-Rover'). Arthur is almost certainly the only survivor of the original Solihull team, who rescued the Rover Car Company from impending failure after the Second World War by developing a 'stop gap' 4x4 vehicle — a 'stop gap' that's still going strong over 60 years later, and is an iconic favourite around the globe.

But it's fair to say that Arthur's part in the story has never been fully told, largely because he left the Rover Company in the mid 50s to work for Girling, and then moved on to Burmah Castrol in Australia, where he's lived ever since. When he left Solihull, the Land-Rover had been established as a success, but had yet to become a world-wide icon — no-one was writing the history books yet, and when they did, he was away from the scene, and his contribution was somewhat overlooked.

Now, thanks to a chance remark over Skype by one Australian in Brisbane, to another in Droitwich, Worcestershire, Arthur's remarkable memories have been captured. Still active at the age of 89, and working a 5-day week in his company which makes tough trailer components for the Outback, Arthur was invited back to the UK by the Series 1 Club and the Land-Rover Register, who organised a fortnight of special events for him. These included a tour of the modern Land Rover factory (and his old office); the recreation of some of the first publicity photos, taken in a Warwickshire ford; a gathering of some of the very oldest Land-Rovers still on the road (including the very first one to be registered), and a special dinner in his honour. He also went back to the Motor Industry Research Association (MIRA) to see how the stretches of notorious Belgian Pavé road surface that he measured and recreated have stood up to 6 decades of knocking seven bells out of cars in accelerated-wearing programmes.

And I was honoured to be able to follow him with my camera, and record it for posterity. I had no idea what would become of it, apart from an irreplaceable record of a remarkable man, and the history he had to tell. Well, I now know that it will make another DVD — how long it will take I really don't know, because (like 'FO') it'll be one of those things to be done in between my other business and domestic duties. It could be months yet, but I'll be keeping you up to date in this Newsletter. I'll also be starting a similar Newsletter just for people interested in Arthur's story, and you can sign up (I'll be keeping the two mailing lists separate) by visiting my embryo website.

But those who are going to the Series One Club National Rally at Ripon Racecourse on the 26th of this month, there'll be a tantalising taster on show — provided I can get it finished in time!

Operation Enterprise

In recent Newsletters, we have been serialising extracts from 'Operation Enterprise' — a report described as 'An account of the gruelling 10,000 mile reliability trial over the Sahara Desert, jungles and mountains, undertaken by the Turner-Diesel Trans-African Test Team.' This was in 1954/5, and they were test-driving (for reasons explained in Newsletter 23) a Turner-powered Land Rover (107" NUK952) across the Sahara to Kenya and on to Rhodesia. The leader, Ken Hill, wrote 'Operation Enterprise' as a record of the event, and has allowed me to quote from it. (Note that things could be written in those days that would be considered quite 'Politically Incorrect' today, as in the Bouar Chimpanzee remark!)

French Equatorial Africa
We are about early this morning and several miles on our way by 5 a.m. Rain had fallen at intervals throughout the night and the road was dotted with pools of water, the morning mist was so thick I had to drive with headlamps full on. As the sun came up conditions cleared somewhat, but at the height we were travelling (approximately 3,000 ft.) we could look down into the valleys on either side and see just the tops of trees on the lower ground showing through the mist like dark islands floating in a white sea. The road became steadily worse, the pot-holes resembling shell craters and when there were no holes there were humps. Our speed lessened and we received a severe shaking. At mid-day we stopped for lunch in the shade of a large tree and prepared to relax in a bout of sunshine, but our hopes were short lived as the sky darkened and great clouds built up above us. I was attempting a little photography when the storm broke and a gigantic flash of lightning disappeared into the earth by my left foot. In a split second, three members of "Operation Enterprise" were sitting in their respective positions inside the cab of the Land Rover nonchalantly surveying the downpour and probably wondering who was most alarmed, for the peal of thunder following the lightning had to be heard to be believed.

We ultimately continued on our way to Bouar, a small place of no importance with no garage facilities. When we arrived here we found the rest house quite full, but the Chief of Police very kindly lent us an empty house for the night and we are quite comfortably installed. Jock Allum and myself have just returned from the local bar where we collected, amongst other things, a few gallons of fresh water. There is a most amusing chimpanzee there, who eats spaghetti with a fork and drinks water from a tumbler. It is quite horrifying to note its resemblance to the local natives.

On the Banks of the Ubangui
Having heard of an alternative route to Stanleyville, by crossing the river at Bangui and directly into the Congo, I went with the local Rover agent to negotiate for a canoe to cross the river. After considerable haggling, we procured our return passage for 300 francs, and stepping into an ancient dug-out canoe, perched ourselves on the side, and Stanley and Livingstone-fashion we paddled across the river, over half a mile in width. Several innocent logs of wood drifted off the far shore as we approached, and slithered beneath the muddy water — they were crocodiles, possibly on the look out for a European lunch. I was relieved to step ashore on to a sandy beach and put a few hundred yards between myself and the water, particularly as the shoes I was wearing might have graced the back of one of their distant relatives a few years ago.

The Belgian in the local office was very helpful, and pointed out a satisfactory route on the map with the assurance that it was not, "tres difficile pour le jeep Anglais." We then took our leave and on the way back to the beach examined the 'ferry' — this consisted of nine large dug-outs, lashed together with half a dozen wide planks roped on to the top of them. It worried me a little, as at first sight I would not have cared to put a bicycle on it with any confidence, but later in the day I saw it transporting a three ton truck laden with drums of petrol, and the French Police tell me it is the accepted form of transport across the river. We re-crossed to Bangui without incident, although I noticed we had taken on board a small boy with a tin, who expertly poured over the side a quantity of water, at intervals, approximately to the amount trickling in through a hole in the side. I suppose this was more reliable and less expensive than repairing the hole.

Bangui could be quite a pleasant little spot, and probably is at the right season of the year, but just now, with the rains about, it is extremely humid and uncomfortable, and the insects most persistent in their attentions. The town is built on the banks of the Ubangui River, and the more affluent residents have formed a small yacht club and also do some flying from the civil and military airport, their houses are large and open with spacious verandas around them, built away from the river into the surrounding hills, most attractively lighted at night. The cost of living is staggering, I have just purchased a tablet of Palm Olive Toilet soap, at a cost of 7 shillings. Breakfast, consisting of three cups of coffee and three rolls, 14 shillings. A bottle of beer (as if it mattered) 8 shillings & 6 pence per pint. I shall not shed any tears when we leave this little town behind us. [Those were the days, eh? – Ed]

M'bali Falls
Had a most pleasant day. The manager of the local Rover agents, together with his assistant and their respective wives, took us out for the day to a favourite weekend camp at the M'bali Falls, some 60 miles from here. Pleasant wooden chalets are built amid shady trees on the banks of a wide river, which sweeps up through jagged clumps of rock to plunge 150 feet to the river bed below. We camped close to the bank, and felt cool and comfortable in a minute spray of water mist drifting from the falls on a light breeze. We eventually climbed down a very rocky descent through masses of tropical grass, shrubs and bushes, to the base of the falls where the view was magnificent, with masses of water hurtling down in a white foam, and over the lip of the widest section a lovely rainbow formed in the sun's rays. The spray resembled a deluge from a watering can, and in a few minutes we were saturated.

A pleasant surprise
This evening I was sitting outside the hotel, near a large group of people, when I was surprised to hear a strong Yorkshire accent, proclaiming that in 1951 "I was first man to cross the desert alone," on investigation I saw the speaker to be of medium height and ample figure, wearing a large black beard and side whiskers, the lady with him had a distinct English look, and both were obviously enjoying themselves. At a lull in the conversation I managed to slip over to the lady's chair, and make some perfectly obvious remark about them being English, to which she replied: "You speak good English, you must have studied in England." However, we soon got things straightened out and when Jock Allum and Crosby-Jones appeared on the scene, we were all very pleased to make the acquaintance of Mr. and Mrs.Hinchcliffe from Bradford. We spent a most enjoyable few hours with them, and I have the greatest admiration for Mrs.Hinchcliffe, for, although two weeks ahead of us, and travelling the Hoggar route, it must have been very arduous for her and not an encouraging introduction to Africa.

Stormbound
The weather since our arrival has been sultry, humid and generally exhausting. The storms have been Olympian in magnitude with jet black skies heralding deafening peals of thunder and blue flashes of lightning renting the clouds. The rain teems down as though poured from a gigantic bath, and in a matter of ten minutes the streets are awash with inches of water. It is quite impossible to see across the road. The occasional flash of lightning is so consuming in brightness, that if old Satan himself stepped out of it one would not be surprised. We have now had an opportunity of inspecting Mr. Hinchcliffe's caravan, a conversion of the Commer Van. It has been beautifully done, with light oak panelling, settees, built-in cupboard, a small kitchen and refrigerator. Part of the roof has been lifted, and a shelf-like second floor has been put in as a bed. Most attractive, but not at all suitable for this sort of travel, the desert and bad roads generally have treated it cruelly. We hope to get under way tomorrow, provided we can complete the necessary Customs, Immigration formalities, etc., and catch the ferry.

In the next Newsletter the Expedition moves into the Congo, where the rain storms continue... but with sharply-defined edges.

The Long and the Short of it

After reading of the Turner Expedition in the last Newsletter, Alan Stevenson emailed to ask why 'First Overland' didn't also use the longer-wheelbase 107" vehicle. I pointed out that in 1955 the LWB Station Wagon version was still in the development stage, as it required a different chassis to give a flat floor for the second row of seats. That led to Alan writing:

It poses a nice 'what if' point for discussion — had the 107SW been available, would the factory offered it rather than the short wheel base version? Given the choice would FO have taken the bigger vehicle?

I agree with you about the LWB being heavier, thirstier and far less nimble — watching the footage of the wee motors crossing the suspension bridge is bottom-clenching stuff, and a bigger and heavier vehicle would have tested the local engineering to its limit!

A further related point is the fact that there is, in my opinion, a great temptation to fill all the available space in an expedition vehicle — perhaps the FO guys would have found themselves taking more gear than was necessary or essential. Interestingly, Tom Sheppard concludes that it is the stresses imposed by additional weight, not unreliable electronics or poor driving, which is most likely to destroy a Land Rover during an expedition.

On an emotional level I think the FO expedition was all the better for having the smaller vehicles — much of the film and many photographs leave you staggered how such a tiny car could cover that distance through those terrible conditions. A larger vehicle with more gear and supplies – overkill perhaps – may have appeared to make the success of the trip a formality. Maybe by accident the factory got it right by offering two SWB motors to FO, although time has shown that the 'standard' expedition vehicle is a 110 ... but only in white!

And as I drive to work each day in my draughty, leaky, noisy 20-year-old Ninety, I'm sure there is one more advantage over larger cars. If Drippy breaks down — and she does quite regularly — I feel I can lift her up, give her a cuddle and promise everything will be OK ! Try doing that with a 110!!

So that was Chief Mechanic Henry Knott's secret method of keeping the cars on the road to Singapore — frequent (and doubtless surreptitious) applications of a 'Cambridge Cuddle'!

Living the Expedition Dream

I've had a super email and set of photos from Simon Fiddyment, who (with his partner Penny) has just completed a 'First Overland'-inspired trip to Singapore in a 1963 Series 2 Land Rover. Not enough room in this Newsletter to do it justice, so that's something to look forward to in the next issue. I also hope to have more details of the progress on the 'Arthur Goddard' DVD.

Finally, I'll remind you that we can all keep abreast of the latest developments of the 'First Overland Second' Expedition by visiting their new www.firstoverland.co.uk website, being hosted by the LR Series One Club. And if you have memories of an expedition (preferably in a Land Rover) that you'd like to share, then please contact me.

GRAEME ALDOUS

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